Newfoundland Dog Drooling and Coat Care: A Practical Owner’s Guide” loading=”lazy”>

Newfoundland Dog Drooling and Coat Care: A Practical Owner’s Guide

Reviewed by Dr. Veronica Heller, Veterinarian  ·  Published 2026-09-26  ·  Last Updated 2026-10-28

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In my fifteen years of veterinary practice, I have treated nearly every dog breed imaginable, from tiny Chihuahuas to giant Mastiffs. Yet, few hold a special place in my heart quite like the majestic Newfoundland.

These gentle giants bring immense joy, unparalleled loyalty, and a calm presence to any household. However, they also bring an astronomical amount of drool and fur into your living space.

Many new owners find themselves completely overwhelmed by the sheer scale of physical maintenance these massive dogs require. I wrote this comprehensive guide to share the exact clinical strategies and grooming routines I recommend to my clients.

The Anatomy of the Newf Drool: Why It Happens

When a Newfoundland owner walks into my exam room with a slobber rag slung over their shoulder, I always smile. It is a true badge of honor for anyone who shares their life with this magnificent breed.

Many clients ask me if there is a way to stop the drooling, but I have to explain that it is a physical certainty written directly into their DNA.

Newfoundlands possess incredibly deep, loose upper lips, which we veterinarians refer to as ‘flews.’ These heavy folds of skin create natural pockets where saliva pools throughout the day. Because giant dogs produce massive quantities of saliva to aid digestion, these pockets quickly overflow.

Gravity takes over, and the result is the characteristic ‘shoestrings’ of drool you see hanging from their muzzles.

Understanding what triggers this salivation can help you prepare. While some drool is constant, certain situations will cause a massive surge in saliva production that requires quick intervention.

• The sight, smell, or anticipation of food and treats
• Warm ambient temperatures or high indoor humidity
• Physical exercise, playing, or heavy panting
• Situational stress, excitement, or anxiety

Identifying Abnormal Drooling

While standard drooling is normal, a sudden, dramatic increase in saliva can indicate a serious medical problem. I always tell my clients to look for signs of oral pain, foreign objects lodged in the teeth, or dental disease.

If your dog is drooling excessively and panting heavily in warm weather, it could be an early sign of life-threatening heatstroke.

Managing the Slobber and Preventing Lip Fold Infections

Living with a Newf means embracing the slobber, but it also means protecting their delicate skin. The warm, dark, and damp environment within those heavy lip folds is an absolute paradise for opportunistic bacteria and yeast.

In my clinic, I regularly diagnose lip fold pyoderma, a highly painful and foul-smelling skin infection, in giant breeds because of poor moisture management.

To prevent this condition, you must establish a strict, daily cleaning routine. Simply wiping the outer muzzle with a dry towel is not enough to keep the deep skin crevices healthy.

You need to actively clean and dry the interior folds to prevent bacterial overgrowth.

I recommend keeping a dedicated grooming kit near your dog’s water bowl to make daily maintenance a seamless habit.

• Use veterinary-grade chlorhexidine wipes to clean deep inside the lip folds daily.
• Gently dry the skin folds with a clean, highly absorbent microfiber towel after every meal.
• Keep the hair around the muzzle and chin trimmed short to prevent saliva accumulation.
• Inspect the lips weekly for signs of intense redness, swelling, or a musty, sour odor.

Clinical Signs of Lip Fold Pyoderma

If bacteria take hold in the folds, your dog will let you know through their behavior. They may rub their face frantically against your carpets, paw at their mouth, or resist having their muzzle touched.

If you notice a red, raw appearance inside the folds accompanied by a strong, unpleasant smell, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for medicated topicals.

The Double Coat: Understanding Nature’s Wet Suit

To care for a Newfoundland’s coat, you must first understand its complex, dual-layered structure. These dogs possess a soft, dense, downy undercoat and a longer, coarser, water-resistant outer coat.

This magnificent system was specifically bred to protect them from the freezing, turbulent waters of the North Atlantic during water rescues.

The undercoat acts as a thermal barrier, trapping air close to the skin to insulate the dog from both extreme cold and extreme heat. The outer guard hairs are coated in natural oils that repel water, dirt, and debris, allowing the dog to shake off moisture easily.

Because this coat is a highly specialized biological shield, it requires specific care. Treating it like a single-coated breed’s fur can lead to disastrous consequences for your dog’s skin health and temperature regulation.

The Golden Rule: Never Shave Your Newfoundland

I cannot stress this enough: do not shave your double-coated dog in the summer months. Shaving strips away their natural insulation against heat, leaving them highly vulnerable to sunburn and heatstroke.

Furthermore, when the coat grows back, the undercoat often outpaces the outer coat, resulting in a damaged, fuzzy texture that mats instantly.

The Line-Brushing Technique: Step-by-Step Grooming

Many well-meaning owners make the mistake of only brushing the top layer of their dog’s coat with a standard brush. This superficial grooming leaves the dense undercoat untouched, allowing dead hair to tangle and form tight, painful mats near the skin.

To prevent this, I teach all my giant-breed clients the ‘line-brushing’ technique.

This systematic method ensures you reach all the way to the skin without causing painful brush burn on your dog’s sensitive skin. It takes time and patience, but it is the only effective way to maintain a healthy double coat.

Grab your slicker brush, undercoat rake, and a metal greyhound comb, and follow these steps during your weekly grooming sessions.

• Part the hair horizontally with your non-dominant hand to expose a clear line of skin.
• Use a long-pinned slicker brush to gently brush the hair downward from the parted line.
• Work in small, manageable sections, starting from the paws and slowly moving upward.
• Follow up with a steel greyhound comb, gliding it gently through the brushed section to find hidden mats.
• Use a specialized undercoat rake to pull out dead, loose hair from the dense undercoat layer without cutting the guard hairs.

Bathing and Drying: Preventing Dangerous Hot Spots

Bathing a ninety to one hundred and fifty-pound dog is a major athletic event that requires preparation. Because their coats are designed to repel water, getting a Newfoundland thoroughly wet to the skin takes significant time and a high-flow water source.

However, the real clinical danger lies not in the bath itself, but in the drying process. Leaving a Newfoundland’s thick undercoat damp is a direct recipe for acute moist dermatitis, commonly known as hot spots.

These painful, raw, weeping skin infections can develop and spread across your dog’s body in a matter of hours.

To prevent this, you must invest in the proper equipment and follow a strict drying protocol every single time your dog gets wet.

• Use a dedicated high-velocity dog dryer rather than a standard human hair dryer.
• Blow the air stream in the direction of hair growth to avoid creating severe tangles.
• Keep the dryer nozzle moving constantly to prevent heat buildup and protect the skin.
• Ensure highly prone areas, such as behind the ears and the groin, are completely dry to the touch.
• Apply a pet-safe, drying antiseptic powder to any skin folds that tend to retain moisture.

Essential Nutrition for Skin and Coat Health

In my clinical practice, I always look at a dog’s coat as a direct reflection of their internal health. A dull, dry, brittle coat or flaky, itchy skin almost always points to nutritional deficiencies or systemic imbalances.

Giant breeds have unique metabolic demands that must be met to support their massive skeletal structures and heavy coats.

Adding specific nutrients to your Newfoundland’s diet can dramatically improve skin barrier function and reduce excessive shedding. It is much easier and highly effective to support the coat from the inside out than to constantly battle dry skin with topical products.

Before adding any supplements, consult with your veterinarian to ensure they are dosed correctly for your dog’s weight.

• High-quality omega-3 fatty acids from wild-caught fish oil to reduce skin inflammation.
• Easily digestible animal proteins to provide the amino acids necessary for keratin production.
• Zinc and biotin supplements to strengthen the individual hair shafts and prevent breakage.
• Vitamin E and other antioxidants to protect the skin cells from oxidative stress and environmental damage.

Related: Havanese Grooming: Corded vs Puppy Cut Coat Options

Navigating the Seasonal ‘Coat Blow’

Twice a year, typically in the spring and autumn, your home will be covered in a soft layer of dark fluff. This is when Newfoundlands ‘blow’ their undercoats to adapt to the changing outdoor temperatures.

The sheer volume of fur shed during these transitions can be shocking to first-time owners.

During a coat blow, daily grooming is absolutely non-negotiable. If you neglect the coat during this critical window, the dead undercoat will quickly lock together with the emerging new growth, leading to severe, full-body matting that requires medical clipping.

Using a high-velocity dryer outside can help blow out the loose undercoat before you even begin brushing, saving you hours of manual labor.

• Increase grooming sessions to at least once or twice a day during the peak shedding weeks.
• Take the dog outdoors and use a high-velocity dryer to blow out the loose, dead undercoat.
• Use a specialized de-shedding tool gently, taking care not to scrape or irritate the skin.
• Schedule a professional ‘bath and blowout’ if the volume of shedding becomes completely unmanageable.

Common Skin Conditions in Newfoundlands

Because of their thick coats and heavy skin folds, Newfoundlands are predisposed to several specific dermatological issues. As a veterinarian, I frequently treat these conditions in my clinic, and early detection is always the key to a quick recovery.

If you notice your dog scratching excessively, licking a specific spot, or producing a strange odor, it is time for a thorough skin check. Familiarizing yourself with these common issues will help you know when to handle the problem at home and when to seek professional veterinary care.

• Acute moist dermatitis (hot spots) caused by trapped moisture and self-trauma from licking.
• Yeast dermatitis, especially in the ears, paw pads, and skin folds, thriving in warm, damp areas.
• Folliculitis, a bacterial infection of the hair follicles, often presenting as small pustules or crusty spots.
• Allergic dermatitis, triggered by environmental allergens or food ingredients, causing intense itching.

When to See Your Vet

If your dog’s skin is oozing, bleeding, or has a strong, sweet, or musty odor, do not wait. These are clear signs of an active infection that requires prescription topical therapies or systemic medications to resolve.

Related Dog Guides

Frequently Asked Questions

Sources & Further Reading

• American Kennel Club (AKC)
• Merck Veterinary Manual
• American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA)
• PetMD

Final Thoughts

Caring for a Newfoundland is undoubtedly a labor of love, but the rewards are beyond measure. By understanding their unique anatomy and committing to a consistent grooming routine, you can keep your gentle giant happy, healthy, and smelling fresh.

Remember that consistency is your greatest tool when managing drool and maintaining that beautiful double coat. Never hesitate to reach out to your veterinary team if you notice any changes in their skin or overall comfort.

With patience and the right techniques, you will find that managing this wonderful breed is entirely achievable.

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